A weekend in Mui Né

We’ve had our little traditions for nearly 18 years in Vietnam, and Mui Né has always been part of our weekend getaways from Saigon. This time, it felt a bit like a pilgrimage before one of my sons heads off to start his new life as a student. So we revisited all our favorite spots, indulged in our little habits, and—of course—discovered new places, new views, and new activities. Pure happiness.

These days, Mui Né is only about 2 hours and 30 minutes from Saigon by car—half the time it used to take. Back then, it was more of an expedition. Mui Né is famous as Vietnam’s kitesurfing hotspot. Over the years, hotels have sprung up, and the small fishing village has grown into a full-blown seaside resort. The Covid years took their toll, but life is coming back—sometimes in ways that aren’t exactly tasteful, but that’s part of Mui Né’s charm: you’re never bored.

And like everywhere in Vietnam, Mui Né starts with food! Believe me, the choice is endless.

For breakfast, we’re loyal fans of Monstera Café: Nutella waffles, a perfect latte, and you’re ready for the day.

Our lunch favorites:

we’re big fans of Sunsea Resort. We love the hotel, but we especially love its restaurant right on the beach, serving excellent Thai specialties and more.

Another must-visit is BiBo, a true Mui Né institution: a Bo Ke-style seafood spot that’s noisy, lively, and absolutely delicious. The scallops are outstanding, and the razor clams with tamarind sauce are simply irresistible. More recently, we discovered Backstage, a restaurant offering both French and Vietnamese dishes. The tamarind squid and garlic-butter mussels are superb, and the Swiss-cheese croque-monsieur is also a must-try.

For dinner, we prefer more relaxed, intimate settings. One of our traditions is dining on the beach at the Sailing Club(we also love the hotel). You eat with your feet in the sand, enjoying international cuisine for every taste, then take a beach walk to help with digestion.

We also enjoy Modjo, where Chef Frankie—another 18-year Mui Né veteran—serves excellent dishes in a stylish setting. If you’re craving a Savoyard fondue (yes, in Vietnam!), head to Swiss House, where the cheese is imported directly from Switzerland.

As you can see, Mui Né offers plenty of dining options—and that’s only part of its appeal.

We love walking along the beach, collecting pieces of blue-and-white ceramics that the sea has been bringing to shore for centuries. Legend has it that several hundred years ago, ships carrying ceramic cargo bound for export sank off the coast of Mui Né.

We often start our day at the Poh Sa Inu Cham Towers, beautifully preserved and dating back to the mid-18th century. The visit takes about 20 minutes and makes a great starting point for a beach walk.

A few hundred meters later, you’re on the sand, facing the sea—turn left and walk all the way to the Sailing Club. Deserted beaches, little wind, warm 28°C (82°F) water, and no trash thanks to the currents—it’s a small paradise.

Another great walk begins at Fairy Stream, a small river that flows to the beach on the opposite side of Phan Thiết. The stream’s landscape changes constantly with the rain, wind, erosion, and small landslides. After following it to the sea, we turn right and walk for about two hours along the coast, past newly built embankments and charming little cafés. Stop when you’ve had enough, and watch out for the sun—the wind can be deceptive.

The famous Red and White Sand Dunes are also worth a visit—a desert-like landscape tumbling into the sea. Go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.

For something unique, Mui Né Enduro offers electric motorbike tours through the red dunes and along deserted beaches with Vietnam’s Enduro champion as your guide. Silent, light, and exhilarating—it’s unforgettable.

Of course, in season, Mui Né is the kitesurfing destination. On some days, the sky is filled with colorful kites in a mesmerizing dance.

When the sun sets, Mui Né keeps the energy going. Joe’s Café is a great place to start the evening, while Dragon Beach, Nirvana, and Triangle Rooftop Club all offer music, drinks, and good company.

Enjoy your weekend in Mui Né!